I grew up and have lived in Louisiana most of my
life and now live on one of the highest elevations in New Iberia (25 ft.)
part of the year and Sewanee, Tennessee (2,000 ft.) the other part. I find it strange when “Sewaneeans”
say “I’m going down to the Valley to shop,” and they’re referring to several
towns, the peak elevations of which rise 1,000 ft. Now that I live during the spring and summer on The Mountain, the elevation of a town like Cowan, Tennessee, which peaks at 954 ft., doesn't seem to be much of a valley.
At the western base of the Cumberland Plateau, which juts
out in ridges that create small valleys, stands the town of Cowan, which drains
via Boiling Fork Creek (a dry bed the first year I glimpsed it), a tributary of
the Elk River. I love to drive through the little town on the way to Winchester,
Tennessee for groceries, and I don’t ever remember much water running through
Boiling Fork. I’ve experienced perhaps two downpours while shopping near Cowan.
Many of my poems include the landscape and vegetation of the Valley where corn,
soybean crops, pastures of yellow rapeseed, and rolls of hay dot the fields.
Cowan’s claim to fame can be traced to the mid-19th
century when it became the site where railway lines met the Nashville to
Chattanooga trunk of the Nashville, Chattanooga and St. Louis Railway, and trains
traveled through the Cowan Tunnel. Pusher engines assist
ed trains to climb the
steep ascent to the Cumberland Plateau, and are still being used today. When I
pass the station on my trek to Winchester and see the engines, I wonder if they
were the prototypes for The Little Engine That Could, a children’s classic with
a moral about what a positive attitude can do for a machine (or a human) wanting to achieve
success. It was a book popular during my childhood and is still found in most
contemporary libraries.
Last week we stopped at a renovated restaurant renamed “The
Valley Cove Bistro” in Cowan and discovered an excellent menu for a restaurant
in a small town of 1,770 people, including classic French Onion Soup, the original
Corner House (former name of the restaurant and a Tennessee Back Road Heritage
property) Gazpacho, Grilled Salmon and Cucumber Wrap, and Apple Rose Puff
Pastry (the latter filled with Maple Custard served with Vanilla Bean Ice
Cream). I asked about the Chef and was told he’s a native of the Valley area.
Further down the road in the Valley, we stopped at a fruit
and vegetable store supplied by Amish farmers from Lawrenceburg, Tennessee and
purchased ears of sweet corn, a cantaloupe the size of a watermelon, and
home-grown tomatoes. The store was attached to Lapp’s Greenhouse, a nursery
where we’d bought herb plantings earlier this summer, and which have survived
the drought.
I read that one of the characteristics of a valley is “low
land” and that most of them are deep and narrow, but this one must be an old
one because it isn’t steep sided like younger valleys still being uplifted to create mountains.
When we travel home from the Valley, we often try to guess
how many degrees cooler the temps are at the higher elevation of The Mountain,
and today The Mountain proved to be seven degrees cooler. However, I hasten to
mention a major advantage of living in the Valley: real estate is $100,000
cheaper down below than on The Mountain! The main thoroughfare of Hwy. 41A running
through Cowan is lined with lovely homes and businesses housed in quaint
buildings that were built during the town’s heyday when the railroad came
through.
Photographs by Victoria I. Sullivan
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