Showing posts with label Avery Island. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Avery Island. Show all posts

Saturday, February 11, 2017

MY KIND OF MARDI GRAS

Karen & Darrell's house
It's that time of year again — Mardi Gras in French Louisiana. If readers want the full Monty about this celebration, a foray into Lyle Saxon's Old Louisiana provides an extensive account of this season preceding Lent. Saxon, one of the brightest raconteurs of his day, lived most of his life in New Orleans and devoted the first six chapters of Old Louisiana to Mardi Gras, explaining that the very name New Orleans "brings to mind a Mardi Gras pageant moving through the streets at night: crowds of masqueraders, rearing horses, great decorated floats glowing with color and glittering gold-leaf. Aboard the swaying cars are centaurs, mermaids, satyrs, gods and men, illuminated by flaring torches carried by strutting negroes robed in red..." Saxon sat on a balcony in front of the St. Charles Hotel during Mardi Gras, 1946, and described the first Mardi Gras to occur after WWII over a national radio broadcasting chain. Readers could say that he was talking about Mardi Gras while dying; a few days after his broadcast, he was hospitalized with cancer and died.

Darrell, Diane, Karen
For the tourist, New Orleans is the place to be during Mardi Gras activities, but, of course, Cajun Country has its own Carnival balls, parades, and private celebrations. At my age, I prefer the latter, especially when it takes place in the home of the Bourques in Church Point, Louisiana. Like Saxon, Darrell Bourque, the former poet laureate of Louisiana and his wife Karen, a glass artist, have an abiding interest in "living well." When we get together with them, the atmosphere is charged with the energy of two accomplished artists — books are stacked on desks, in bookcases everywhere; regional art fills every room in their home and studio. The studio is an old shotgun style house the Bourques renovated to resemble a Creole cottage, complete with heavily-battened blue shutters, facing the cobbled New Orleans style courtyard. A new addition is a wrought iron fence enclosing the cottage that adds to the Creole ambience.  Each time we visit the studio, I discover glass pieces I've viewed before, but see them as new, in every corner. I find different displays of their grandson William's paintings, perhaps a new poem lying on the tall table where the two artists create both glass work and poems — everything is viewed as new. I tease my friends about my becoming a permanent guest holed up in their studio to write.

Thursday, a Mardi Gras centerpiece decorated the dining table where we dined and talked for two hours. The food! Darrell cooks a magnifique pork roast with homemade sauce of roasted peppers and onions; Karen, a sweet potato casserole, fresh asparagus salad with homemade dressing, and Darrell always insists that we have nahn, which he knows I learned to love while living in Iran. "This is our Mardi Gras," Darrell said, and we toasted our long friendship as a way to celebrate that which is fun-filled and gracious in our lives. No loud fanfare, parades, costumed folks, no dancing in the hall — just lots of talk and doubling-over laughter.

Vickie @ Mardi Gras table
We got up from the festive table and went outdoors, where I usually insist on taking photographs so we can reminisce when we return to Sewanee for the spring/summer season. Four or five shots of us are required for me to look decent, linked with these two handsome artists, and Thursday we posed in front of one of Darrell's prize camellia bushes. Darrell, a consummate gardener, also raises grapefruit, lemons, and oranges and usually has a bumper crop of ginger but the last freeze destroyed these beautiful plants. His white camellias would rival the prize camellias in the gardens of Jefferson and Avery Islands, Louisiana.

No Hail Rex and his royal court, no bursts of music, little parades of glittering floats, or the unrealness of a Mardi Gras scene... but the realness of a good time enjoyed by all. We came away feeling well-cared for following our celebration in the prairie country of St. Landry parish, a region of Louisiana I've learned to love after viewing it through the eyes of these elegant south Louisiana artists.

Saturday, May 14, 2016

‘GATOR HUNTING IN LOUISIANA

“The most interesting thing about a postage stamp is the persistence with which it sticks to its job.” Napoleon Hill

A week ago, we set out for New Iberia, Louisiana on a photography mission – that of taking shots of various scenes to accompany poems in my new book, A Slow Moving Stream. Since that time we have done a mini-tour of most of the tourist spots in and around New Iberia, and Dr. Victoria Sullivan has taken most of the photos needed for this volume. However, the subject for one photo did elude us for a week, and today we finally located the subject for a poem entitled “The Kingdom”: an American alligator…or a Cajun alligator, that is… fresh from a habitat you readers will never guess from whence he came.


As we aren’t watchers of the TV show, “Swamp People,” we hadn’t mastered the technique of locating the elusive ‘gators before setting out on this great hunt, but Dr. Sullivan was once a naturalist in the Everglades (about 45 years ago), so I felt confident that, if called upon, she might know how to wrestle with this armored reptile if we accidentally stepped on one that was sun-bathing.

 We set out on our first hunt to Lake Martin near Breaux Bridge, Louisiana, turning down a road that threw up huge clouds of white dust as we spun toward the lake. The weather was at a sultry 88-degree peak, and I sorta’ hoped that I wouldn’t have to exit the AC in the car to get a good look at a ‘gator taking a sun bath. We stirred up dust along the ‘gator trail for twenty minutes before I spied something looking like an oversized log in a lagoon covered with floating Salvinia.



Hey là-bas!” I exclaimed. “Got one on first try.”

“Too far away,” my naturalist friend said. “I’ll put on my wellies and try to get a closer shot.”

I envisioned what I’d tell the Acadian Ambulance workers when they showed up and found me in a tree overlooking the lagoon where the ‘gator was cleaning his teeth.

But my intrepid friend didn’t get into the water, and the ‘gator nosed away without lifting his head enough for a clear shot so I was spared a 911 call. We continued down the dusty road until I began one of my allergy coughing spells and decided to hunt apace at Avery Island, Louisiana.

By then, the idea of exiting the car in the soaring heat and humidity had caused me to begin rethinking the photo shoot. Unfortunately, years ago someone told me that my biggest character trait was persistence, and I felt a little pull of disappointment when I considered turning back.

Back in the 80’s when I first visited Avery Island, I had seen alligators almost swarming beneath the platform of Bird City on this island, and had shivered as I climbed the steps to the platform overlooking the nests of American egrets.  Yesterday, as we began the climb to the top of the platform, I looked around the first step and not one ‘gator dozed in the murky water. At the top of the platform I looked down again and spied a cluster of four turtles on a log — but no ‘gators. After a half hour of staring into the sun and watching all the birds make their graceful landings to feed their young on the nesting platform, we spied one alligator nosing his way into a clump of rushes, but he was still too far away to photograph with any success. By that time, I had begun to experience something I hadn’t felt in the three months of spring I had spent on The Mountain at Sewanee, Tennessee – I had begun perspiring.

“I’ve broken a sweat,” I informed Dr. Sullivan. “Time to look elsewhere.”

“You know, I saw a sign advertising an 18-ft. replica of a ‘gator named Monsurat tacked to the wall on the front porch of the ticket office,” she said. “Maybe it would do for a picture to accompany the poem.”



“I’m not going in and ask about that thing,” I told her. “But if it’s the best you can do…”

We got in the car and drove back to the ticket office. When she came back from her shoot, she said she had asked where the alligator was, and the clerk in the office told her, “It’s out on the back porch,” as if the animal was still alive and entertaining tourists. Dr. Sullivan showed me a photo of this stuffed critter with its mouth open wide enough to hold a small pirogue, and I laughed derisively. “Won’t do,” I told her. “This is a serious book of poetry.”

We spent an afternoon tweaking the photos we had, trying to make a ‘gator rise out of the Salvinia large enough for a good picture, but it became so pixilated, we had to give up.

This morning I got up at 6:30 with ‘gators on the brain again. Suddenly, the light dawned. Zoo of Acadiana!!! We telephoned Zoosiana, as it's called, and were told that they owned several American alligators. Within fifteen minutes we had joined a line of people holding the hands of little people and pushing strollers into the small zoo that is the answer to the question every parent in Acadiana asks come the week-end: “What will we do with them on Saturday.” We circled through a maze and came upon a small cabin within a fenced off area where three long, fat alligators lay dozing. Ten minutes later, we were spinning homeward, seven or eight photograph shots of Louisiana alligators in hand.

“From Tennessee to Louisiana, $50 worth of admission fees and four tanks of gas later, we have a photo of something we might have found in the coulee behind the house here in New Iberia,” Dr. Sullivan quipped.

“Well, this beats that caricature at the Avery Island ticket office,” I retorted. “Besides, I’ve always wanted to see Zoosiana. Remember that Buckskin Bill Show where the guy at the end had to close his show with ‘Baton Rouge needs a zoo!’ all the time he was on the air? At least, we didn’t have to hound people to donate to a zoo here in Cajun country.”

“Yeah, but what happened to all the ‘gators that lived on 5,000 acres of lowland E.A. McIlhenny donated so they’d be protected?” she asked.


“They must have let the performers in ‘Swamp People’ ashore,” I said. “Besides, we didn’t need the three we found in the zoo. And I’m glad you didn’t have to wade into the water looking for a good angle to shoot the picture. I read that a child can walk faster than an alligator can run on land, but in water they move faster than the swiftest fish. I thought I heard a clucking noise in the sedges at the island…”  

Thursday, February 19, 2015

SIGNS OF SPRING

Camellia along the coulee
In the middle of the coldest winter I've experienced in New Iberia, Louisiana in many years, I'm heartened at the sight of the lone camellia tree growing in my backyard. My godfather planted the infant shrub at least twenty years ago, and regardless of sleet, snow, hard rains, and benign (?) neglect on my part, this beautiful plant has flourished. At Sewanee, Tennessee in my second home, we know spring is on its way when we see yellow daffodils breaking through the snow, but here in Louisiana the camellias and lovely Japanese magnolia trees announce that we're on the brink of a season of color and light.

While I admire the flowering camellia for its beauty, I discovered only this year that the Camellia sinensis, or tea plant, is important because tea is made from its leaves. Also, in Japan, tea drinkers sip tea made from C. sasanqua leaves, while in southern China people use camellia tea oil for cooking.

Here in south Louisiana, one of the most notable growers of delicate camellias was J. Lyle Bayless, Jr. (now deceased), an entrepreneur from Kentucky who, as a child staying at a plantation home in Natchez, Mississippi, saw a red camellia growing in the yard of the old home and became enchanted with the flower. Later, when he accompanied his father on a trip to Avery Island, he watched E.A. McIlhenny (of Tabasco fame) demonstrate the art of grafting camellias. Bayless also became fascinated with the "Jeanerette Pink" camellia growing in the yard of the Joseph Jefferson mansion on Jefferson Island. In the middle of a winter similar to the one we're experiencing, he saw the pink blossom of this tree die, then return to life two weeks later. This "resurrection" convinced him that he should plant a garden filled with camellias.

Bayless owned the site now known as Rip Van Winkle Gardens and in 1952 cleared the land around the old Jefferson House and planted a garden with numerous camellia plants. In 1965, many of his prize camellias, along with azaleas and other plantings, were killed due to salt dust from the mines on the island stirred up by a hurricane. In 1966, Bayless employed Geoffrey Wakefield, an English horticulturist, to design Rip Van Winkle Gardens and for three years, Wakefield put in large numbers of camellia plants.

Clusters of camellia flowers
During Bayless's lifetime, he exhibited his camellias and won more than 1,000 prize ribbons at shows held in the southern states. He also hybridized many camellias, one of which he named "Elizabeth" after a relative. Although the Lake Peigneur salt mine disaster destroyed much of Bayless's gardens in 1980, horticulturist Mike Richard (and now owner of Rip Van Winkle Gardens) orchestrated the replanting of the gardens. Today, magnolias, azaleas, and Bayless's beloved camellias can be found along garden trails in Rip Van Winkle Gardens.


Avery Island, another one of the five islands near New Iberia, also has a plethora of camellias in its Jungle Gardens, and numerous yards throughout New Iberia are filled with the flowers of these early blooming trees. I enjoy filling bowls with the pink blossoms that my struggling tree (whose variety name I don't know) produces, and I've named it "Spring Festival" after x williamsii, cuspidata, a hybrid that gained the Royal Horticultural Society's Award of Garden Merit. Although this isn't the plant's real name, it should be because it has survived the neglect of its owner and continues to remind us that the festival of spring is just around the corner.

Photographs by Victoria Sullivan